Tag: North Jersey Dining

  • Viaggio Ristorante Review: Is the Chefโ€™s Counter in Wayne Worth It?

    Viaggio Ristorante Review: Is the Chefโ€™s Counter in Wayne Worth It?

    Viaggio Ristorante review featuring a chefโ€™s-counter dinner with Chef Rabbit

    Three handmade pastas, Sicilian influence, and a front-row dinner with Chef Matthew โ€œRabbitโ€ McCormick in Wayne, New Jersey

    By Richard Jarocki
    August 13, 2026

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    I did not mean to book the chefโ€™s counter at Viaggio Ristorante.

    The original plan was to order Viaggioโ€™s pasta tasting, which was available throughout the dining room. Somewhere during the reservation process, I chose the chefโ€™s counter instead.

    By the time we realized the mistake, we decided to keep the seats.

    Good decision.

    Earlier that afternoon, we had stopped at Bar Franco in Montclair to kill some time before dinner. Four cocktails later, that unplanned stop had nearly become the destination.

    Viaggio still had to follow it.

    Our accidental booking placed us directly in front of the kitchen, where Chef Matthew โ€œRabbitโ€ McCormick cooked, plated, explained and served the tasting menu.

    It turned a dinner I was already looking forward to into one of the most personal restaurant experiences I have had in New Jersey.

    At a chefโ€™s counter, there is nowhere for a restaurant to hide. You see the timing, communication, adjustments and hands finishing every plate. You also learn quickly whether the person cooking your food genuinely wants you there.

    Chef Rabbit did.

    He knew every ingredient, understood every decision behind the menu and seemed genuinely proud to share the food. There was no canned speech or forced performance. He cooked, answered our questions and allowed the meal to speak for itself.

    Viaggio means โ€œjourney,โ€ which can sound like predictable restaurant marketing until the courses begin.

    This meal actually traveled: cured seafood, Spanish ham, octopus, three completely different pastas, swordfish, beef, layered chocolate and a final bowl of gelato that turned a simple kitchen snack into one of my favorite bites of the night.

    The quick verdict: Viaggioโ€™s chefโ€™s counter is worth booking for anyone who cares about handmade pasta, regional Italian cooking and direct interaction with the kitchen. The three pasta courses justified the $110 price, while Chef Rabbit made the evening memorable.

    Robbie Felice, Sicily and Viaggioโ€™s Point of View

    Robbie Felice had recently returned from Sicily, and Viaggio was rebuilding parts of its menu around those roots.

    The influence was clear, but the kitchen was not treating tradition like a museum exhibit. The food looked backward while continuing to move forward.

    Feliceโ€™s restaurants have become my go-to choices for Italian food because he is not trying to reproduce the same red-sauce menu found throughout North Jersey.

    I grew up with that food and still love it. There is nothing wrong with chicken parm, baked ziti or a bowl of Sunday sauce.

    Viaggio is simply playing a different game.

    The restaurant focuses on handmade pasta, serious technique, excellent products and regional Italian flavors that remain generous and recognizable.

    Felice opened Viaggio with his father in 2016, when he was only 26. Osteria Crescendo followed in 2019, and Felice was named a 2020 James Beard Award semifinalist for Rising Star Chef of the Year.

    He later expanded his approach with pastaRAMEN, the Wafu-Italian concept created with partner Luck Sarabhayavanija, and Bar Mutz, his mozzarella and cocktail bar.

    The common thread is not one fixed style. It is Feliceโ€™s willingness to respect tradition without becoming trapped by it.

    Viaggio may be the purest expression of that idea: a neighborhood restaurant with ambitious cooking, a serious pasta program and enough warmth to keep a long tasting menu from feeling stiff.

    What Is Viaggioโ€™s Chefโ€™s Counter Like?

    The chefโ€™s counter changes the rhythm of dinner.

    Instead of waiting for a finished plate to appear from somewhere behind a wall, you watch it become a dish.

    I watched Chef Rabbit move between preparation, flame, sauce, seasoning and plating before turning around to explain what he had made.

    That access never felt rehearsed.

    If I had a question, he answered it. When I wanted the exact dish descriptions later, he helped me identify every course.

    That may sound like a small detail, but it says a lot.

    A chefโ€™s counter should offer more than an expensive seat near the stove. It should bring guests into the process and make the interaction feel worthwhile.

    This one did.

    The Opening Courses

    Cured Aquanaria Sea Bass Crostini

    Cured Aquanaria sea bass crostini served beside an Occidental wine bottle and glass at Viaggio Ristorante.
    Cured Aquanaria sea bass crostini opened the chefโ€™s-counter tasting at Viaggio Ristorante.

    The first bite was cured Aquanaria sea bass on crostini: clean, salty and delicate.

    The toast provided exactly the crunch the fish needed and kept the bite from becoming too soft or precious. It was small, focused and a smart opening statement.

    Instead of beginning the tasting with something unnecessarily complicated, the kitchen started with a good product and gave it just enough support.

    Ibรฉrico Prosciutto โ€œ5 Jotasโ€

    Next came Cinco Jotas Ibรฉrico ham.

    I had recently returned from Spain, so the quality and freshness caught me by surprise. After eating excellent Ibรฉrico in its home country, I did not expect a restaurant in Wayne to serve something that immediately brought me back there.

    The kitchen showed restraint and let the product do the work.

    The fat softened almost immediately on the tongue, leaving a flavor that was nutty, savory and deep without becoming heavy.

    When ham is this good, the smartest thing a chef can do is stay out of its way.

    Viaggio did.

    Olive Oil-Fried Octopus

    The octopus arrived with roasted fingerling potatoes, garlic, herbs and white wine.

    Its edges were crisp, the center stayed tender and the potatoes absorbed the sauce underneath.

    This was rustic food in the best sense of the word: direct, satisfying and free of unnecessary tricks.

    Octopus can become rubbery when it is mishandled or buried beneath too many competing flavors. Viaggio avoided both problems.

    The texture was right, and the supporting ingredients made the dish feel complete without distracting from the octopus.

    Three Handmade Pastas with Three Different Personalities

    Then came the heart of the tastingโ€”not two pasta courses, but three.

    That could easily have become repetitive.

    It did not.

    Each pasta had a different shape, sauce, weight and personality. Together, they made the strongest argument of the night for why handmade pasta sits at the center of Robbie Feliceโ€™s restaurants.

    Braised Oxtail Tortellini

    The braised oxtail tortellini rested in a vibrant tomato passata.

    The filling was dark, rich and slow-cooked, while the tomato provided enough acidity to keep the dish moving. The pasta was tender but still had the structure required to contain both the filling and the sauce.

    This was the deepest and most comforting of the three pasta courses.

    In less careful hands, oxtail, stuffed pasta and tomato sauce could have become excessively heavy. This version delivered all the expected richness without stopping the progression of the meal.

    It was familiar enough to feel comforting but refined enough to justify its place in the tasting.

    House-Made Spaghetti with Summer Squash and Duck Prosciutto

    The house-made spaghetti with summer squash and duck prosciutto changed direction completely.

    The squash added sweetness and freshness, while the duck prosciutto provided salt and depth.

    This was the most relaxed pasta of the group and perhaps the most revealing.

    It demonstrated that the kitchen did not need a dozen ingredients or an elaborate presentation to make a plate feel complete. A few thoughtfully selected components, properly handled, were enough.

    The pasta remained the focus, which is exactly how it should be.

    Ravioli del Sol

    The Ravioli del Solโ€”the โ€œsun ravioliโ€โ€”was the visual showpiece.

    The five-cheese ravioli arrived surrounded by orange-lemon butter and basil oil. The citrus cut through the richness of the cheese, while the basil contributed fragrance, freshness and color.

    The dish landed somewhere between comfort food and fine dining.

    It looked dramatic, but it did not taste like a stunt. The flavors remained controlled, and that balance made the presentation worthwhile.

    A dish shaped like the sun and filled with five cheeses could easily become more about the photograph than the food.

    This one earned the photograph.

    The three pastas were different enough to avoid repetition but connected enough to feel like a deliberate sequence. If I had to identify the defining portion of the chefโ€™s-counter experience, this was it.

    From Sea to Land to the Fire

    Fire-Roasted Swordfish

    After three pasta courses, the fire-roasted swordfish reset the meal.

    It arrived with heirloom cherry tomatoes, scallion and leek.

    Swordfish can become dry in a hurry. This did not. It remained moist and meaty, with acidity from the tomatoes and sweetness and smoke from the alliums.

    The plate gave the meal a second wind without feeling like an intermission.

    Following three consecutive pastas with another rich dish would have been a mistake. The swordfish provided contrast while maintaining the menuโ€™s Sicilian direction.

    Involtini di Manzo

    The savory finale was involtini di manzo with provolone, garlic potato purรฉe and jus.

    This was the richest plate of the night: beef wrapped around melted cheese, smooth potato underneath and a glossy sauce tying everything together.

    Subtle?

    No.

    Satisfying?

    Completely.

    The kitchen understood that the dish needed balance, not restraint. The result was indulgent without becoming clumsy.

    It also gave the savory portion of the tasting a decisive ending. After the lighter swordfish, the beef returned the menu to something deeper and more comforting before dessert.

    Dessert Was Not an Afterthought

    Seven Veils Cake

    The Seven Veils cake came with hazelnut crema and hot fudge poured tableside.

    Layered, chocolate-forward and unapologetically rich, it delivered exactly the kind of indulgence its name promised.

    The hazelnut crema softened the intensity of the chocolate, while the hot fudge pushed the plate firmly back toward decadence.

    I appreciated that the kitchen did not finish a generous meal with a tiny, overly intellectual dessert.

    This was polished, but it was still dessert.

    It was supposed to be pleasurable, and it was.

    The Chefโ€™s Snack

    Just when we thought the tasting had ended, the kitchen sent out one final course: the โ€œchefโ€™s snack.โ€

    It was a scoop of vanilla gelato finished with Frantoia olive oil, fennel pollen and Maldon sea salt.

    On paper, it was the simplest dish of the night.

    At the counter, it was the perfect ending.

    The olive oil made the gelato taste rounder and more luxurious. The fennel pollen contributed a delicate floral note, while the sea salt sharpened everything around it.

    It proved that a memorable final bite does not need to be complicated.

    It only needs to be right.

    Viaggio Is BYOB

    Viaggioโ€™s BYOB policy made the tasting feel even more personal.

    Our bottles, the open kitchen and the measured pace of service turned dinner into an extended conversation.

    Even as the cooking became more technical, the atmosphere remained warm because Chef Rabbit was directly in front of us, guiding the experience without dominating it.

    BYOB is especially useful during a tasting menu because you can bring bottles you already know and enjoy instead of navigating an unfamiliar restaurant list.

    The obvious tradeoff is that you need to plan ahead.

    Bring enough wine for the table, but remember that this is a long menu. You want bottles that can work across seafood, pasta, meat and dessert without overwhelming the early courses.

    The Advantage of Sitting at the Counter

    At the counter, the food does not arrive as a mystery.

    You see the work behind it and begin to understand how many small decisions must align before each plate reaches a guest.

    You also see the pressure.

    The kitchen must execute while diners watch from only a few feet away. Every delay, adjustment and moment of communication happens in front of you.

    Viaggio looked comfortable under that scrutiny.

    The experience never became dinner theater. Chef Rabbit did not perform for attention or interrupt every bite with a long explanation.

    He provided enough information to make each dish more meaningful and then allowed us to eat.

    That balance matters.

    Some chefโ€™s counters become more about the chef than the guest. This one remained focused on the food while still creating a personal connection.

    Where Viaggio Fits in Robbie Feliceโ€™s Restaurant Group

    Viaggio reinforced something I already knew: Robbie Feliceโ€™s restaurants share a creative point of view, but each has its own identity.

    Osteria Crescendo is the more formal experience, complete with a bar and a serious cocktail program. It is polished and refined without losing the personality that makes Feliceโ€™s restaurants distinctive.

    Bar Mutz is more modern, experimental and energeticโ€”a restaurant with a genuine bar scene rather than a dining room that merely happens to have a bar.

    Even though I do not usually tell restaurants I am lactose intolerant, Bar Mutz is one of those places where I knowingly accept the consequences.

    I will gladly suffer to eat there again.

    PastaRAMEN has become one of my essential restaurants. It is my Christmas Eve destination and somewhere I return two to four times a year.

    Its combination of the Italian food I grew up eating in North Jersey and the Japanese cooking I love makes it an easy choice whenever the menu changes.

    The concept could have been a gimmick in less capable hands. Instead, it feels natural, personal and endlessly creative.

    Then there is Viaggio: rooted in regional Italian cooking, driven by handmade pasta and brought to life by the intimacy of the chefโ€™s counter.

    It may be the most revealing expression of the restaurant group because you can sit close enough to see the technique, pressure, discipline and personality behind every plate.

    Is Viaggio Ristorante Worth $110 Per Person?

    Yes.

    A $110 tasting menu is not inexpensive, but the experience delivered enough food, variety and direct interaction with the chef to justify the price.

    The three handmade pasta courses alone made this tasting worth remembering:

    • Braised oxtail tortellini in tomato passata
    • House-made spaghetti with summer squash and duck prosciutto
    • Five-cheese Ravioli del Sol with orange-lemon butter and basil oil

    Add the cured sea bass, Ibรฉrico ham, octopus, fire-roasted swordfish, involtini di manzo and two desserts, and the menu felt complete rather than merely long.

    Every course had a reason to be there.

    The BYOB policy also adds value. We could bring wines we already wanted to drink without paying restaurant-list markups.

    Most importantly, the chefโ€™s counter provided something beyond the food. Chef Rabbit prepared, explained and personally served the menu directly in front of us.

    That interaction turned a $110 tasting into an experience rather than simply a long dinner.

    Frequently Asked Questions

    Where is Viaggio Ristorante?

    Viaggio Ristorante is located at 1055 Hamburg Turnpike in Wayne, New Jersey.

    Is Viaggio Ristorante BYOB?

    Yes. Viaggio is a BYOB restaurant, so guests can bring their own wine.

    Does Viaggio offer a chefโ€™s counter?

    Yes. Viaggio offers chefโ€™s-counter tasting experiences, although availability and menus can change. Reserve the counter specifically when booking.

    How much does Viaggioโ€™s chefโ€™s counter cost?

    The chefโ€™s-counter tasting menu cost $110 per person during my August 2, 2026 visit. Current pricing may vary, so confirm the price directly with Viaggio when booking.

    Does Viaggio serve handmade pasta?

    Yes. Handmade pasta is one of the restaurantโ€™s defining strengths. Our tasting included three different pasta courses.

    Do you need a reservation?

    Reservations are strongly recommended, especially for weekends and the chefโ€™s counter.

    Is Viaggio good for a special occasion?

    Yes. The chefโ€™s counter works particularly well for a birthday, anniversary or dinner where direct interaction with the kitchen adds value to the experience.

    Would I choose the chefโ€™s counter again?

    Absolutely. The interaction with Chef Rabbit transformed a very good tasting menu into a memorable evening.

    The Verdict

    Would I return?

    Absolutelyโ€”and I would sit at the chefโ€™s counter again.

    Viaggio is the kind of Italian restaurant I want to see more of in New Jersey.

    It respects the food many of us grew up eating without repeating the same familiar menu forever. Robbie Felice and his team use handmade pasta, excellent ingredients and modern technique to present a broader vision of Italian cookingโ€”one that can begin in Sicily, draw inspiration from elsewhere and still return home without losing its identity.

    The food was precise and confident, but Chef Rabbitโ€™s presence prevented the counter from ever feeling formal or distant.

    We were not simply served by the chef.

    We were invited into the process.

    We could watch the kitchen work, understand the thinking behind each dish and experience the meal as a conversation instead of a one-way presentation.

    A sincere thank-you to Chef Rabbit for the food, hospitality and time he gave us throughout the evening.

    I followed him on Instagram before leaving because I want to see where his cooking goes next. Robbie Felice is already one of New Jerseyโ€™s standout chefs, while Chef Rabbit feels like an emerging talent ready to make his own mark.

    Put those two creative forces together, and it is easy to believe that more exciting things are coming.

    If you care about handmade pasta, serious Italian cooking and where New Jersey dining is heading beyond the classics, Viaggio belongs on your list.

    I will dine there again, and when I return, I hope Chef Rabbit is behind the counter.

    This is not the chicken parm many of us grew up eating.

    It is the next chapter.

    And I will be back.

    Sources and Useful Links

    Chef Rabbit pours hot fudge over layered Seven Veils chocolate cake with hazelnut crema and chopped hazelnuts at Viaggio Restaurant.

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review

    My Viaggio Ristorante Review